Transplanting Trees + Shrubs
Sometimes a tree or shrub ends up in the wrong place. Maybe it has outgrown its space, needs more or less sunlight, or simply needs to move because of changes in the landscape. When transplanting an established plant is necessary, cooler weather is generally the best time to do it.
For many deciduous trees and shrubs, the dormant season—from late fall through winter—is an excellent time to transplant because the plant isn’t actively producing leaves and shoots. In East Texas, it’s usually best to complete the move before spring growth begins.
Evergreens can also be transplanted successfully, but because they continue losing moisture through their foliage during winter, careful handling and consistent moisture after transplanting are especially important.
Why Is Transplanting Different From Planting?
When you dig up an established tree or shrub, some of its root system will inevitably be lost. The larger and more established the plant, the more difficult it can be to move enough of the root system to support the plant afterward.
That’s why younger and smaller plants are generally easier to transplant successfully than large, mature specimens.
Transplanting is stressful for a plant, so the goal is to preserve as much of the root system as reasonably possible, minimize the amount of time the roots are exposed, and provide good care while the plant becomes established in its new location.
How Do I Transplant Correctly?
• Prepare the new planting location first. Having the new hole ready before digging up the plant reduces the amount of time its roots are exposed to drying air.
• Dig carefully and preserve as much of the root system as possible. Keep the root ball intact when you can and handle it by the root ball rather than pulling or lifting the plant by its trunk or stems.
• Dig the new hole wider than the root ball, but no deeper. A wide planting hole helps roots grow into the surrounding soil. Avoid creating a small pocket filled with heavily amended soil, particularly in our East Texas clay, because this can interfere with drainage and root establishment.
• Don’t plant too deeply. Position the plant so the top of the root ball is at or slightly above the surrounding soil level. For trees, make sure the root flare isn’t buried.
• Backfill primarily with the existing soil removed from the planting hole, breaking up large clods as you go. Gently firm the soil to eliminate large air pockets without heavily compacting it.
• Water thoroughly after transplanting. This helps settle the soil around the roots and provides essential moisture immediately after the move.
Do I Need to Cut the Plant Back?
Don’t automatically remove 40–50% of the top growth to compensate for lost roots. This was once a common transplanting recommendation, but healthy leaves and branches are important for producing the energy a plant needs to rebuild its root system.
Instead, remove branches that are dead, broken, damaged, or clearly necessary for structural reasons. Any additional pruning should be based on the needs of the particular plant rather than performed simply because it was transplanted.
Don’t Forget the Mulch
Apply a 2″–3″ layer of mulch over the root zone to help conserve moisture and moderate soil temperatures while the plant becomes established.
Keep mulch several inches away from the trunk or main stems. Avoid piling it against the plant in a “mulch volcano.”
Should You Stake a Transplanted Tree?
Not every transplanted tree needs to be staked. Stake only when the root ball isn’t stable enough to keep the tree upright on its own or when the planting location makes temporary support necessary.
If staking is needed, use flexible ties that won’t damage the trunk and allow a small amount of natural movement. Remove the staking materials once the tree is stable rather than leaving them in place indefinitely.
Watering After Transplanting Is Critical
A transplanted tree or shrub needs careful moisture monitoring while new roots begin growing into the surrounding soil. Winter rainfall alone may not provide enough water, even when temperatures are cool.
Check the root ball and surrounding soil regularly and water deeply when needed. Avoid keeping the soil constantly saturated—roots need both moisture and oxygen.
Continue monitoring moisture through spring and into the first East Texas summer. A plant may look established above ground long before its root system has fully recovered from being moved.
Right Plant, Right Place!
If a tree or shrub was originally planted where it doesn’t have enough room, receives the wrong amount of sunlight, or struggles because of drainage or other site conditions, moving it to a more appropriate location may give it a much better chance to thrive.
Choose the new location based on the plant’s mature size, sunlight requirements, soil, and drainage—and whenever possible, make the move during cooler weather before active spring growth begins.