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Meet The Peggy Martin Rose

I am fascinated with the stories surrounding plants and the Peggy Martin rose story is one of the best.  Also known as the Hurricane Katrina rose, she is a vigorous, thornless climber with clusters of pink flowers and is extremely easy to grow.  Blooming in the spring and again in the fall (even in our Texas heat) this rose is resilient in many ways.



The story begins in 1989 in New Orleans when Peggy Martin was given cuttings from a thornless climbing rose.  Very active in the New Orleans Old Garden Rose Society she showed it to Dr. William Welch of Texas A&M in 2003 who was most impressed by the rose.  He left with cuttings but little hope that it would survive in the hot, dry Texas climate.

Survive it did, quickly covering his 15-foot fence and blooming both in the spring and fall after the second year.  He was most impressed with this “un-named rose”. 



In 2005 Peggy’s home was under 20-feet of salt water for 2 weeks following hurricane Katrina.  When she was finally able to visit her property she found the rose bush still alive and flourishing. Dr. Welch reconnected with Peggy a couple of months after the hurricane and learned of the survival of the rose bush.  He had already been convinced that this rose deserved to be marketed and used funds from a Horticulture Restoration Fund to make it happen.

He came up with the idea to name it the Peggy Martin rose and to also use it as a fund raiser with a $1.00 per plant donation going to the Garden Restoration Fund.  Several rose growers got on board to help grow and market this unique rose. This rose has become a beautiful symbol of survival and a testament of resiliency.

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The Number Two Reason Newly Planted Trees Die

Planting a tree too deeply in the ground is the number two reason we see newly planted trees die (Number one is underwatering). If you can’t see where the trunk starts to flare out at the base of the tree then you are planting the tree too deep.

The first picture correctly shows the trunk flare and the largest few roots exposed above the soil level. Sometimes, it is necessary to remove dirt from the rootball to expose the root flare properly. This is the correct depth to plant a tree.

CORRECT

INCORRECT

The second tree is planted too deeply. You see only straight trunk, no flare at the bottom. This tree is doomed unless it is “lifted” and planted correctly.

So why does planting too deeply kill a tree? 

Tree roots require oxygen and when covered with too much dirt the surface roots suffocate.

We suggest digging your hole no deeper than the bottom of the rootball to the trunk flare. Make sure the flare of the tree is at or slightly above the soil line. You should dig the hole wider than the rootball – at least 6” wider and up to 2 times the width of the rootball.

What if my tree is planted too deeply? 

Depending on the length of time it has been planted will depend on the solution.

Feel free to text us pictures at (903) 339-0922 along with your call back number so we can contact you with answers.

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Keeping Your Re-Bloom Azaleas Beautiful

Re-Blooming Azaleas (those that bloom 3-4 times per year) are one of the most versatile flowering shrubs available. But, maybe yours aren’t doing as well as you hoped they would.


Here’s 5 reasons why they may not be blooming and how to fix that (info provided by Encore Azaleas)


1. They need 6 hours of light per day – 

morning sun is better than afternoon, and bright dappled light is OK. Without enough light they will be thin and lanky and will not bloom much. Either transplant them to a sunnier spot (at the appropriate time of the year) or prune trees to allow more sunlight through.


2. Bad weather – 

an early season freeze prior to the plant hardening off through fall can damage buds and keep them from blooming. A late freeze in spring can have the same affect on blooms. Unfortunately, there isn’t a remedy for Mother Nature.


3. Pruning improperly – 

If you prune at the wrong time and remove buds you will have no blooms. The best time to prune is immediately after blooming in the spring.


4. Lack of Water – 

Once established they need 1” of water per week in mild climates and more than that here during our summer heat festival. Mulch 2-3” deep to help cool off the roots and retain moisture in the soil around your shrubs.


5. Using the wrong fertilizer – 

Use a fertilizer specifically for azaleas and acid loving plants. Don’t use a lawn fertilizer since it has too much nitrogen (1st number listed) and this will cause the plant to grow leaves instead of flowers.

I am going to add 2 more tips to the list:

6. Don’t plant too deeply – 

dig your hole only as deep as the size of the root ball. You don’t want the plant to settle and be in a bowl that will hold water. Some suggest leaving an inch or so of the rootball above ground level and then cover with mulch.

7. Plant in well-drained soil – 

azaleas do not want to be in soil that does not drain well. They prefer soil that will dry out between watering. Too much water will make the plant weak, and eventually branches and sections will begin to die. Yellowing leaves is a sign that your plant is getting too much water.

Follow these suggestions and enjoy the beauty of reblooming azaleas year round.

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Get To Know Sedums

We all love those cute little succulents that we plant in everything, but you need to get to know their cousins, the sedums, better.


These perennials are also known as stonecrops because they are found growing in rocky areas. They come in lots of different sizes, colors, and textures and are perfect mixed in containers or in beds or rock gardens.


They are not only drought-tolerant like succulents but are winter hardy and able to survive in cold weather and look great year-round. They are easy to grow and requires little maintenance.

There are 2 main types:

Ground cover sedum which is low growing and spreads as a ground cover or drapes over the side of your containers or hanging baskets, over rocks in a garden or over a retaining wall. The shapes and textures of these plants lend themselves to so many “cool” planting ideas. They have small blooms throughout the summer and into the fall, but their foliage alone is outstanding.

Upright Sedum have succulent type leaves and will grow into a small bush shape as it matures. It is evergreen (stays green throughout the winter) so you can enjoy them all year. They bloom in the late summer and early fall with flat clusters of tiny flowers that change color as the bloom matures over several weeks. The texture of these plants and interesting blooms works in a variety of plantings.


Tips on planting sedums in pots:

· Use a well-draining soil. They can develop root rot and turn mushy if they are grown in too wet of soil.
· Make sure your pot has drainage holes. Sedums roots are shallow so they don’t need a deep pot.
· Don’t overfeed them with fertilizer. Use a slow release fertilizer.
· They prefer full sun, but can take some shade.
· Allow sedums to dry out between waterings.
· Water potted sedums when the top 1 inch of soil dries out.

Here’s some of my favorites:

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All About Panicle Hydrangeas

These hydrangeas are so easy to grow and their blooms are stunning – both in size and in color. Proven Winners even calls them the “black thumb hydrangea” because of their ease of growing. The blooms are larger than other hydrangeas and shaped like a football. They all start out pure white and change to pink and reds as fall approaches.  


They bloom later in the summer on new wood – meaning they leaf out in the spring and then set their flower buds. This means you can prune the plant in the fall or in early spring without negatively affecting the blooms. (Goof Proof!)

Notes:

  • They like morning sun and afternoon shade – too much shade will result in fewer blooms.
  • Don’t amend the soil – plant them directly into your soil – super simple!  
  • They grow in different soils (even clay) if the soil is well-drained. Soils that are too wet lead to root rot, so make sure the soil does not stay wet for any length of time.
  • Their color cannot be changed to blue by adjusting the pH level of your soil – the blooms start out white and will naturally change to pink or red as the bloom matures.
  • You can prune in fall or spring. Prune off about 1/3 of the plant. You may find it easier to prune in the spring after new growth appears. Cut the stem above where healthy buds are emerging, this is usually about ½ or 1/3rd down the stem.  
  • The blooms make excellent cut flowers but the color they are when you cut them is the color they will keep. They will not change from white to pink/red after cutting, so if you want pink/red wait until they are pink/red to cut them.

Watering is important. If you see your plant wilt it can be caused by too much water or not enough water. 


Here’s how you can tell the difference:

  • Overwatered hydrangeas drooping foliage feels soft and limp and the flowers often wilt. 
  • Underwatered hydrangeas drooping leaves feel dry and crispy, can have light brown spots around the leaf edges or look dusty in color. Unless they are exceptionally under-watered the flowers usually won’t be wilted.

If you have a spot in your yard that gets morning sun and afternoon shade, plant one of these lovely ladies. Their showy blooms, flower color transition and ease of care makes this a much sought after plant.

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How To Change The Color Of Your Hydrangea

The pH level of your soil dictates what color your hydrangea will be.  Here’s the cool part – you can change the pH level of your soil. 

First test the pH level of your soil to determine if you have alkaline or acidic soil.  Alkaline soil (7.0 or higher) creates pink hydrangeas blooms and Acidic soil (lower than 6.0) creates blue blooms.

Add lime to the soil to create an Alkaline soil condition and pink blooms.

Add aluminum sulfate to the soil to create an Acid soil condition and blue blooms.

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Adding Orange In The Garden

Crossandra – Deep green, glossy leaves and upright, orange flowers that bloom non-stop through the summer.  Can grow to 2’ tall and wide.

Bells of Fire’ Esperanza – this is a compact esperanza that produces red-orange trumpet shaped blooms.  Will bloom from spring until frost and loves the heat. 

Profusion Zinnia – my ‘go to’ summer bloomer.  Mounds of blooms cover the entire plant.  Profuse bloomer from spring through first freeze.

Neon Orange Sunpatien – Bright, as in “you’ll need sunglasses!” bright.  This plant does best in morning sun and afternoon shade and needs to be watered daily – but it is worth the extra work!  Super, colorful plant.

Orange Impatien – shade loving plant that resembles a pillow of blossoms in bright orange color.  Can tolerate some morning sun and does well in the ground or in containers – best in well drained soil.

Marigold – Old standard that continues to produce orange flowers throughout the heat of the summer.  Solid orange color or orange mixed with darker shades.

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What Do The Numbers On A Bag Of Fertilizer Mean?

Fertilizers have 3 numbers listed on their container known as N-P-K

N = Nitrogen which makes your plant grow and makes it greener.

P = Phosphorus makes it bloom, fruit and build good roots

K = Potassium heat and cold hardiness

Hang in there – we’re going to talk numbers, but I’ll keep it simple.  The NPK numbers tell you how much of each item is in the fertilizer.  Knowing what the NPK does will help you choose the fertilizer for your need.

General Lawn fertilizers – look for a larger 1st number.  (29-0-4)

To increase blooms or fruiting – look for a larger 2nd number (12-24-12)

For all purpose fertilizing – look for a balanced number (13-13-13)

For you Geeks, if you add up the numbers of the NPK it totals the amount of fertilizer in the bag.  For example, the total fertilizer in a bag of 13-13-13 equals 39.  So, 39% of the material in the bag is fertilizer and 61% is filler which helps in spreading the fertilizer.

Fillers can include sand, limestone, sawdust, clean or sterile dirt, peat moss, sphagnum, ground corn cobs or other similar fillers.

You may have noticed that organic fertilizers show much lower N-P-K numbers than a synthetic fertilizer.  By law, the ratio can only list nutrients that are immediately available to a plant. Many organic fertilizers contain slow-release nutrients that are available over time instead of immediately and therefore cannot be counted in the N-P-K numbers.  However, they will continue to fertilize a plant longer than a synthetic fertilizer. 

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All About The Endless Summer Hydrangea

This brightly-colored hydrangea revolutionized the way hydrangeas are used in landscapes. ‘Endless Summer’ was the first hydrangea discovered that blooms on the previous year’s woody stems and the new season’s growth.

A whole series of Endless Summer Hydrangeas followed “the Original”.  There are now 5 varieties:

The Original – Large, mop-head blooms in either blue or pink depending upon your soil’s pH level. It grows to 3 x 5 feet tall and wide and is a rounded shaped plant.

Twist-n-Shout – was the first re-blooming lacecap hydrangea in deep pink or periwinkle blue (depending on soil pH).  The stems are red which ad even more interest to the plant and it grows to 3-5’ tall and 3-4’ wide.

BloomStruck – Depending on the pH or your soil, it blooms rose-pink or purple flowers.  It has red/purple stems and red veins on the leaves and grows to 3-4’ tall and 4-5’ wide.

Blushing Bride – has white semi-double florets, which change to blush pink or Carolina blue depending on the pH of your soil.  It grows to 3-6’ tall and 3-6’ wide.

Summer Crush – the newest addition to the family this has bright, raspberry red or neon purple blooms, again dependent upon the pH or your soil.  It is very bright!.  It is smaller growing 18-36” hight to 18-36” wide.  Great in containers or in the ground.

Plant these in a shady spot and be prepared to water daily – especially once we reach 90+ degrees.  This series will not disappoint if you do your part. 

Disease-resistant and hardy, this hydrangea offers color from spring until fall.  Versatile and beautiful, the ‘Endless Summer’ hydrangea is a great addition to almost any landscape.

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Heat-Loving Annuals

As David Bowie sang Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes – it’s time to change out your cool season annuals for those heat lovers of summer. 

I know – some of your plants may still look really good and it’s hard to dig them up.  Planting summer annuals now allows them to establish a good root system that is so important in our summer heat.

Here’s some of our favorites:

Sun


Vinca – Upright blooming plants in vivid colors that bloom non-stop.  Don’t overwater them and make sure they are in well drained soil and they won’t let you down.  Here’s a hint, if they get too tall and leggy you can cut them back by half their height, feed them with water soluble fertilizer (Schultz) and they will come back compact and blooming.

Profusion Zinnia – Aptly named they bloom profusely until our first frost.  Making mounds of blooms, these hardy plants are easy to care for.  Requiring no trimming or cleaning.  One of my favorites!

Bronze Leaf Begonia – The old standby.  Leathery leafed plants that can even make it all the way through a mild winter.  These grow in sun and shade so they are perfect for those “is it sun or is it shade” areas.  These short, round mounds of blooms are so versatile – bedding plants, hanging baskets and containers.

Annual Salvia – all colors and shapes of annual salvia.  Most are tall, upright plants with spikes of color blooming throughout the season.  Great to use in the back of beds to create height or as thrillers in containers.

Penta – Excellent butterfly and hummingbird attractors.  These plants are compact and bushier than most annuals and covered with clusters of red, pink, violet or white flowers.  Perfect for beds and containers.

Sun Coleus – Known for it’s bright foliage colors in all colors and shapes.  Another compact bushier annual that will handle the sun.  If it gets too tall you can cut it back and it will grow out a new top.  So many varieties to choose from – a go to plant of mine.

Shade


Impatiens – Mounds of flowers, forever blooming in so many colors.  Great as a stand alone or can be used as borders or planted as a ribbon of color throughout a bed.  Used in beds, hanging baskets and containers.  These plants don’t mind morning sun, but like the shade in the afternoon.

Torenia – 2 types available – an upright variety that has multiple blooms on each plant or a trailing variety that is good for hanging baskets or containers.  Either of these do well in shade and can tolerate some morning sun. 

Green Leaf Begonias – Cousins to the Bronze Leaf variety, but these will only do shade.  They have the same mounding characteristics and bloom colors.  Good in beds, baskets or containers.

Shade Coleus – Bright foliage that grows best in shade.  A newer variety, Kong Coleus, has been a great addition to our shade gardens.  The large, brightly colored leaves get your attention. Use in beds or containers.

Caladiums – Graceful and colorful these shade and part sun loving plants can be used in beds as mass plantings, as a border or plant several in a small cluster.  These are a great choice for container plantings also.

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