Pruning Trees + Shrubs Series: Ornamental Trees
Late fall and winter can be a good time to prune many deciduous ornamental trees because their structure is easier to see after the leaves have dropped. However, the best pruning time can vary depending on the type of tree, its health, and whether it flowers on old or new growth.
Before you start cutting, identify your tree and make sure dormant-season pruning is appropriate for that particular species. Regardless of the tree, there are several basic pruning principles that can help guide you.
Remove Dead, Broken or Damaged Branches
Start by looking for branches that are clearly dead, broken, damaged, or diseased. Deadwood can sometimes be found in the shaded interior or lower portions of the canopy.
When you’re unsure whether a leafless branch is actually dead or simply dormant, inspect it carefully before removing it.
Remove Crossing or Rubbing Branches
Look for branches that cross, rub against one another, or are beginning to damage the bark of a neighboring limb. Repeated rubbing can create wounds and weaken the branches over time.
Determine which branch has the healthier position and structure, then selectively remove the less desirable one.
Watch for Awkward Growth
Branches growing toward the center of the canopy or interfering with stronger structural branches may need to be removed.
Strong, upright shoots may also occasionally need attention, but don’t automatically remove every vertical branch. Evaluate how each branch contributes to the tree’s natural structure before making a cut.
Thin Competing Branches When Necessary
When two or more branches are growing from nearly the same location or competing for the same space, selective thinning may help improve the tree’s structure.
Choose the better-positioned, healthier branch and remove the competing branch when appropriate. Avoid excessive thinning—the goal isn’t to remove as many branches as possible.
Don’t Top Your Tree
Avoid indiscriminately cutting the ends off major branches simply to reduce the tree’s height or size. This practice, commonly called topping, can stimulate weakly attached shoots, create large wounds, and permanently damage the tree’s natural structure.
Instead, make selective pruning cuts back to an appropriate branch or lateral whenever size reduction is necessary.
Make Proper Pruning Cuts
When removing an entire branch, make the cut just outside the branch collar—the slightly swollen area where the branch joins the trunk or a larger limb.
Avoid cutting flush against the trunk, but don’t leave a long branch stub either. Properly placed cuts give the tree the best opportunity to seal the wound naturally.
For larger branches, use the three-cut method to prevent the weight of the branch from tearing bark down the trunk as it falls.
Step Back & Look at the Tree
Don’t spend the entire pruning job standing directly underneath the canopy. Step back frequently and look at the tree from several different angles.
Having another person stand back and look at the tree can also be helpful. It’s much easier to see the overall shape and identify the next branch that needs attention from a distance.
Use the Right Tools
Use clean, sharp bypass hand pruners for smaller branches, loppers for branches that are too large for hand pruners, and an appropriate pruning saw for larger limbs.
Pole pruners and pole saws can help reach some higher branches from the ground, but large limbs, branches near power lines, or pruning that requires climbing should be left to a qualified tree-care professional.
Remember—Less Is Often More!
A healthy ornamental tree doesn’t necessarily need heavy pruning every winter. Start with a purpose for every cut—removing damaged wood, correcting a structural problem, or improving the tree’s form—and avoid removing healthy branches simply because the tree is dormant.
With thoughtful pruning and the right techniques, you can help maintain the tree’s natural beauty and structure for years to come.