Pruning Trees + Shrubs Series: Fruit Trees

 

Pruning fruit trees is a little different from pruning shade or ornamental trees. The goal is to develop a strong structure capable of supporting fruit while maintaining good light penetration and airflow throughout the canopy.

Proper pruning can also make harvesting easier and help maintain a productive tree at a manageable size. However, the ideal shape and pruning technique depends on the type of fruit tree you’re growing.

 
 

When Should You Prune Fruit Trees?

 

• For many deciduous fruit trees, major pruning is done during late winter while the tree is dormant and before active spring growth begins.

• Newly planted fruit trees may also need corrective or training cuts at planting or during their early years to begin developing the desired structure.

• Timing can vary by fruit species and the reason for pruning, so identify your particular tree before beginning.

 

 
 

How to Prune a Mature Fruit Tree

 

• Start by removing dead, damaged, or diseased branches.

• Remove suckers growing from the base of the tree or below the graft union.

• Remove unwanted vigorous upright shoots, often called watersprouts, when they are crowding the canopy or interfering with the tree’s desired structure.

• Remove branches that are crossing, rubbing, damaged, or competing with stronger structural branches.

• When removing an entire branch, make the cut just outside the branch collar. Don’t cut flush against the trunk or larger limb, and don’t leave a long stub.

 

 
 

Allow Light & Air Into the Tree

 

Good light penetration is important for fruit development and can help improve airflow through the canopy. However, don’t automatically try to create an open center on every fruit tree.

Peaches and some other stone fruits are commonly trained to an open-center or vase shape, while apples, pears, and other fruit trees may be trained using a central-leader or modified central-leader system.

Regardless of the training system, look for branches that are:

• Growing inward and unnecessarily crowding the canopy.

• Crossing or rubbing against another branch.

• Growing at an undesirable angle or competing with an important scaffold branch.

• Creating excessive congestion that prevents light and air from reaching the interior of the tree.

Step back frequently while you work and look at the tree as a whole. Avoid removing too much healthy wood in a single year.

 

 
 

What Is Heading Back?

 

A heading cut shortens a branch rather than removing it completely. This type of pruning can encourage branching and help shape young fruit trees, but it shouldn’t automatically be performed on every branch of every mature fruit tree.

When a heading cut is appropriate, make the cut just above a healthy bud facing the direction you’d like the new growth to develop.

How much growth should be removed depends on the fruit species, age of the tree, training system, and reason for pruning. Avoid following a universal rule such as automatically removing 20–30% of every branch each year.

 
 

How to Prune a Newly Planted Fruit Tree

 

Young fruit trees benefit from training rather than simply being cut back to make them smaller. The goal during the first few years is to develop appropriately spaced scaffold branches and a strong structure for the mature tree.

The correct approach depends on the type of fruit tree, whether it arrived as a whip or branched tree, and the training system recommended for that fruit.

 
 

Whips (Unbranched Trees)

 

An unbranched young fruit tree is often called a whip. Depending on the fruit species and desired training system, it may be headed at planting to encourage lateral branches to develop at an appropriate height.

As new branches develop, select well-positioned shoots to become the tree’s permanent scaffold branches or central leader and remove or redirect competing growth as needed.

Because recommended heading height varies by fruit type and training system, don’t automatically cut every newly planted whip to the same height.

 
 

Young Branched Trees

 

• Identify the training system appropriate for your particular fruit tree before making major cuts.

• Select strong, well-positioned scaffold branches with good spacing and branch angles.

• Remove damaged branches and growth that competes directly with the desired leader or scaffold structure.

• Avoid leaving several branches originating from exactly the same point on the trunk.

• Don’t over-prune a newly planted tree. Healthy leaves are important for producing the energy needed to establish its root system and support new growth.

 
 

Know Your Fruit Before You Cut!

 

Peaches, apples, pears, plums, and other fruit trees aren’t necessarily pruned or trained the same way. Before making significant cuts, identify your fruit tree and learn which training system is recommended for it.

For a more in-depth look at pruning specific fruit trees, read The Art of Pruning Fruit Trees from Texas Gardener.

With proper pruning while the tree is young and thoughtful maintenance as it matures, you can develop a strong, productive fruit tree that’s easier to manage for years to come.